THE WILD BISON OF MONTANA -ANOTHER STATE TREASURE

At some point the grizzly bear and the bison must have come head to head to battle out who would be the Montana state animal. Of course, despite the bison’s menacing expression, horns and fearsomely strong shoulders the grizzly bear won. Nonetheless, the bison lives on as a state treasure, despite the threats it has faced. Montana is home to one of North America’s few wild bison populations, where they can be visited and admired in their natural habitat.

American bison (bison bison) are also, wrongly, in scientific terms, known as buffalo. It is thought that French explorers called them ‘les boeufs’ which the British then changed to ‘buff’, hence buffalo. The beasts are majestic, you know the ones: massive with straggly beards, a shaggy coat, a forceful looking shoulder hump and horns with mature bulls at over six-feet high and 12-feet long and weighing around 2,000 lbs. Quite amazing for a creature that just feeds on grasses and a true sight to behold.

Bison mostly graze, chew and wallow in dry or wet hollows to rid themselves of insects, though this trouble can also be alleviated by pecking magpies, who ride on their backs. Although they look calm and lazy, they can be unpredictable. The National Bison Range in Montana warns visitors: “Bison and other wild animals can be dangerous.” Likewise, Yellowstone warns that every year some visitors are injured by bison and tells visitors to stay at least 25 yards away.

A raised tail may indicate an impending charge. Think they look slow? Think again. Somehow, they can shift their mass up to as much as 35 miles per hour! They can also spin round faster than a horse! This presents many good reasons for keeping up insurance; just as an extreme fisherman needs good boat insurance, a bison photographer should have all his equipment insured!

Past to present

Prior to the 1800s bison were free to roam throughout North America though preferred the Great Plains. Estimates vary, but it is thought that there were at least 30 million. They were crucial to the survival of the Plains Indians, who would capture them in ‘jumps’ where they were herded off a cliff and you can visit such sites today. Every part of the captured creature was put to good use: its skin was used for leather for clothing or to make shelter, meat was dried for food, horns and hooves were made into a glue or tools, sinew was used for sewing and dung for fuel. There was also a strong spiritual connection to the bison, which was considered sacred, especially the rare White Bison.

With the movement west of the early settlers in the 1800s, bison-hunting threatened the animal with extinction. They were killed for their hides and sometimes even just for their tongues, considered a delicacy. Concerns had been raised earlier, but thanks to Roosevelt and others, federal  legislation was introduced in 1894, ensuring that bison killing was met with imprisonment or a fine. By the twentieth century, there were as few as 300 bison in the wild, but the legislation halted further slaughter. Nodding to the threat the bison faced in Montana, the state quarter carries a bison skull.

Further steps protected herds in parks. In 1908, the National Bison Range was set up in northwest Montana, again under the auspices of President Roosevelt. Today some 350-500 of Montana’s bison live the 18,500-acre range. Photographers join families and wildlife enthusiasts to watch these fabulous beasts. Many moves have also been made to protect bison in Yellowstone National Park, which now, with over 3,000, hosts the world’s largest free-roaming bison. They can be seen all year-round in Hayden and Lamar valleys, in grasslands in summer and in winter in the hydrothermal areas and along the Madison River.
Plate and palate
                                                                                   
These awesome creatures are also enjoying a revival on the American plate. The National Bison Association says that there are 500,000 heads of bison in the US, as ranches exist throughout the US where the animals are bred to provide meat for a population with a growing taste for the meat, also aware that it is said to have nutritional benefits over other meats. The president served even up ‘Bison Wellington’ for a state dinner at the White House with British Prime Minister David Cameron earlier this month and took him to see baseball. Perhaps a trip to Montana to see bison in the wild would be even more satisfying!

If you’re heading to Montana and want to see some bison my favorite place is the National Bison Range near St. Ignatius. This park is a gem. There are great roads you can drive and, if you’re lucky get quite close to these elegant beasts. Also, you are not likely to have to battle crowds as this park does not get quite the press as it's near neighbor Yellowstone. That makes it even more special to me. I can watch the herd graze over the hillsides and imagine and be transported to a different time. Very special!

Black and white image of a bison at the National Bison Range in Montana.

National Bison Range-10-02-09

Headed straight for the Bison Range. The Range is one of my favorite places. When I got there I checked in at the center and saw a sign saying "Free Today". Made no never mind to me. I always have a park pass. I certainly have gotten my money's worth out of it this year. I think I've been to about seven or eight national parks this year.

I soon found out the reason for the sign. No buffalo viewing today as they were moving the herd and they were out of bounds. Good grief, I've been turned back everywhere I have gone this trip. But, as I walked back to Clem I hear an elk bugle and knew all was not lost. I soon found the old boy wandering along Mission Creek

Bull Elk

A little further down the creek I found a troop of white tail deer.

White Tail Buck

The other animal that you will see a lot of on this range are pronghorn. Pronghorn are the only antelope we have on this continent and they are the second fastest land mammal. Only the cheetah is faster. They are really fun to watch. You can't believe how fast they are and they can turn on a dime.


Pronghorn Buck

This little fella didn't have much of a rack but he did have a harem.


Pronghorn Does

This one cracks me up!

Smiling Pronghorn

She looks like she's smiling doesn't she? It also looks like the picture has been Photo Shopped. It hasn't been. I don't use Photo Shop. Probably the only photographer on the planet who doesn't. What I think is going on here is when pronghorn are uncertain they blow air through their mouths. It puffs up their cheeks and parts their lips.

This is My Favorite Pronghorn Image

The trick, at least for me, in shooting wildlife is to capture them in a landscape setting. I bill myself as a nature and wildlife photographer but what I really am is a landscape photographer who gets lucky enough now and again to find a beautiful wild thing in the landscape. Such moments are not easy to come by.

Timing in life is everything and whilst I'm certain I took some nice shots of stock quality I have my doubts that I took any that will find their way into the limited edition portfolio.

Ansel Adams said that if he got 12-15 photographs it was a very good year. That's about my rate. I probably take four or five thousand photos each year which is nothing in the digital age. But, I still practice the same economy of shooting I did when I was shooting $15 Velvia. Oh, maybe I am a little less careful but not much. I don't believe in firing for effect just because it's free. When I find a shot I like I generally take a couple of backup shots from different angles. Nine times out of ten the first shot is THE shot.

By my definition, photographs are few and far between. Pictures are as common as dirt.

On the way out I saw the Bull elk again. He saw me too.

Bull Elk

There are great views of the Mission Mountains. I was looking at their backside when we were at Holland Lake

Mission Creek is also quite picturesque.

Mission Creek

I did see a little fall color. Little being the operative word.

A Little Fall Color


©Kinsey Barnard

Eureka to Dillon - The Journey Begins

I must start this with a confession, the photo above was taken this past June in Alberta. I didn't take time to take any photos on the way down. For some reason I managed to burn up 8 hours without stopping for photos. This is cattle country so that's why I chose it. This one's for you Al B in Alberta.

It wasn't that there was a shortage of photo ops. I saw some fabulous things at 60 mph. The drive down along Flathead Lake was a beauty. This is a gorgeous lake. Flathead Lake. Next up was the buffalo herd at the National Bison Range. Normally, you don't see them on the south end along 93 but there they were in all their glory. I weep for their ancestors every time I see them.

The fall colors along the Clark Fork and Blackfoot rivers were simply stunning. We saw some fly fisherman casting in the afternoon sun. The water sparkled like diamonds. The scene looked like something straight out of "A River Runs Through it" another little welling in the eye over this one.

As everyone knows, lighting in photography is just about everything, that along with knowing where to stand. In the fall, the sun has journeyed so far south that it looks like afternoon all day long here in Montana. The shadows that are cast bring a whole new meaning and beauty to the landscape. I would have loved to photograph it but we have miles to go before we sleep. One day, when we aren't leaving for the winter, we will come down this way just to photograph it.

We left at eight and pulled into the RV park at four. Long bloody day for this old broad. Koty and I stretched our legs for about an hour and called it a day. Since we are in travel mode I dined on Marie Callender's finest. Actually, accompanied by a goblet of Cabernet it wasn't half bad. :)

Ciao for now,
Koty & Kinsey