CANYONS OF THE ANCIENTS-COLORADO

I'd imagine pretty much everyone is familiar with Mesa Verde and it’s fabulous Anasazi ruins. But, there is a lesser-known place where you can view excellent ruins with far fewer people around to distract you from the siren calls of the ancients. It’s called Canyons of the Ancients. On the day I hiked the canyon I ran into one other person in a five hour period. My hike was in the middle of April not peak tourist season. But, even at peak I’d bet it would be far less crowded than Mesa Verde.


Canyon of the Ancients by Kinsey Barnard

Canyons of the Ancients only fairly recently received National Monument status, Clinton approved the designation in 2000. The area contains a huge number of archeological sites, approximately 6,000 have been found.

Anasazi stands for “The Ancient Ones” and are also referred to as Ancestral Puebloans. Archaeologists estimate the Anasazi people lived in these canyons as early at 7500 B.C. By the 13th century the Anasazi had disappeared from the area. Nobody knows why they left or where they went. It remains a highly debated mystery.


Canyon of the Ancients by Kinsey Barnard

I actually stumbled on this wonderful place by accident. My habit is to just take off and turn down any road that looks interesting or less traveled. I'm constantly trying to find nuggets that haven't been photographed to death. In any even it was a lucky day that I found this place.

It was a beautiful spring day with just the right mix of bright blue sky and puffy white clouds providing the perfect backdrop to the rich red rocks and sand. The twisted pinion pine made for some interesting and lovely settings.



Canyon of the Ancients by Kinsey Barnard

I didn't capture any photos of the ruins that I thought were anything special. Although the ruins are endlessly interesting to see they don't inspire me, artistically, as much as the natural landscape. If you want to see some ruin images a Google search will provide you with thousands.


Canyon of the Ancients by Kinsey Barnard

Scroll back to the first image. This is the spot where Koty and I sat to ponder this land and all it's mysteries. The wind was blowing at just the right velocity to create a sound that seemed almost like the ghost whispers of the Ancients. Because there were no other people or distractions I was able to let my imagination run wild and it was almost like being one with the Anasazi.

In my opinion Canyons of the Ancients is one place you do not want to miss if you are in the area.

Before you go visit the BLM Information Center. No need to fly by the seat of your pants like I do.

©Kinsey Barnard Photography

NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT-THE ANASAZI

We continue our cleanup operations here at the ranch. But, my biggest challenge this week was trying to get my irrigation system up and watering. Every time I think I've got everything set I turn on the pump and another pipe springs a leak. And, every time I make a repair the cement wants me to wait at least 24 hours before turning the pump on again. Thank goodness the monsoon has finally arrived buying me a little time.

Needless to say I didn't have time for us to have an adventure. Koty's nose is well and truly bent out of shape. He lives for our outings.

Instead I return to our adventures in Monument Valley. The day was March 22nd 2009 and I decided we should go take a look at the Navajo National Monument. Navajo National Monument features well-preserved ruins of villages left behind about 1300 by prehistoric Pueblo Indians -- the Kayenta Anasazi. Built and occupied for only 50 years, the ruins represent the final settlement of farmers who adapted to the area's scarce rainfall to grow crops, build houses and raise families, then mysteriously move on.

The main ruin, Betatakin, can be viewed from across the canyon via a very short walk or you can take a guided tour and go down into the canyon. The monument is at 7,300ft. and it was cold with ice and snow still on the ground. Koty wouldn't be allowed on the tour so we settled on the view from the top.

BETATAKIN RUIN

The Anasazi mystery is quite compelling. Nearly everyone one you talk to has a different theory as to why they built their villages where they did and what caused them to disappear. I wonder if they weren't just chased into obscurity by hostile forces (tribes). My sense is that these people were cliff dwellers out fear. Who or what they feared is anyone's guess.

BETATAKIN RUINS

Wandering around on the trail above the canyon I spied this cactus basking in the morning sun. I love to photograph native plants and I thought this lighting was quite nice.

CACTUS SUNNING

The landscapes here were quite stunning but then the landscapes everywhere in this area are breathtaking. If you like color the Four Corners is the place for you.

NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT

We wandered around the trails for a time taking in all the beauty. One of the nice things about coming at this time of year is that you pretty much have the place to yourself which really lets one revel in the beauty and mystique. It's very peaceful and one can let their imagination run wild. I know mine did.

NAVAJO NATIONAL MONUMENT

On the way back to Goulding we found ourselves caught in a hellacious dust storm. By the time we got to the Goulding turn off I couldn't see two feet in front of me. I thanked the gods that the full force didn't strike until we were close to home. We made it up the hill to the RV park and hid in Clementine for the rest of the afternoon.

I have really never experienced anything like it. The wind blew so hard that the windows bowed and the red dust came pouring in. It didn't help that the park is located in a narrow canyon and the rigs have to park perpendicular to the walls so the wind just screamed down the canyon and broadsided us. It also didn't help that there were no rigs above us to make a windbreak. Poor Clemmie she took the blasts full on. I don't think we will ever get all of the red dust out of her. It permeated everything.

Monument Valley quite dramatically demonstrates the dichotomy that is the very nature of nature. One moment She will show you beauty that will break your heart and the next She will show you, in no uncertain terms, that beauty is a gift not a given.

©Kinsey Barnard Photography

CANYONS OF THE ANCIENTS

HAPPY EASTER INTREPID READERS!

Easter always makes me think of lots of color and have I got lots of color for you in this issue.

The weather has continued to be very fickle. I had planned on moving over to Durango on Thursday but the weather looked very iffy so I re-upped in Cortez until Monday. And, as I got to thinking about it I decided to skip Durango altogether because break-up is just getting started and we wouldn't be able to take any of the beautiful hikes we love so much. So, the weather gods willing, we will head for Green River. We might stop at Moab if we can find a slot.

As my mother used to say "It's an ill wind that blows no good". My decision to postpone going to Durango turned out to be a windfall of good fortune. Thursday we piled into Shadow and took off with no destination in mind. The weather looked better in the west so we took off in that direction.

Driving along I saw a sign for Hovenweep National Monument. We actually visited there whilst we were in Blanding, Utah. I will show it to you at a later date. Anyway, we headed toward Hovenweep. Tooling along out of the corner of my eye I see this sign....


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

There was nothing on the road about it so you could easily drive right on by. Well, as I mentioned to my pal "ggersh" at Silicon Investor, I hit the Mother Lode.

This is without a doubt the best hike we've had in six months and would make into the top five all time great hikes for us.


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

To say that the scenery is breathtaking would not do the place justice. But on Thursday, never imagining in my wildest dreams I would find such a place I did not have my hiking gear with me. The main hike is in Sand Canyon and it's twelve miles round trip. So we just wandered in a ways and made plans to return Friday and do the full Monty.


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

Friday morning we packed up our gear and headed back to the Canyons. This time prepared for whatever we might encounter hike. Hiking solo has certain risks associated with it so I always go prepared to spend a night or two if need be.



I put this photo in here because it's a nice photo and I couldn't help but comment on Koty. People often tell me how much they enjoy my photos of him and wonder how I get him in such lovely poses. Well, all I can tell you is, it's quite by accident. What I usually get is a cold shoulder. He absolutely hates to have his picture taken. The minute he catches on that's what I'm trying to do this is the body language I get. what a berk!


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

What makes this place so special is not only the incredible beauty but the fact there are almost no people and you can just wander amongst the ruins at your leisure. It's truly amazing. You can sit and dream about a time gone by, imagining what life was like for these primitive people, wondering where they came from and where they went. For me the canyon had a spiritual aura about it. I found myself with goose bumps on several occasions. It's difficult to put into words but I think I felt their ghosts.


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

The trail follows along a shelf halfway between the top and the bottom of the canyon so you really get up close and personal not only with the ruins but with the beautifully sculpted rock formations. A landscaper could not create anything as beautiful as what Mother Nature does all on her own. Huge boulders, flung randomly, look placed. Cedars, bent and twisted by hundreds of years of wind, appear to be the word of an Edward Scissorhands.


VIEW FULL HIGH RES IMAGE

At one place I stopped to ponder the fate of the Anasazi I was lost in my imaginings when suddenly this incredible roar came blasting up the canyon. It sounded like a fighter jet kicking on it's after burners. I was so surprised I nearly fell off my perch. What it was, was the wind. The ancient undoubtedly thought the wind god was speaking and in no uncertain terms.


VIEW FULL HIGH RE IMAGE

Speaking of falling off my perch. One of the few hikers (I saw maybe three all day) came along with two dogs whilst I was taking the above. I was squatting down to get a different angle and when this fellow showed up with his dogs off leash. When I hike with Koty his leash is attached to my ski-joring belt so I can take pictures without having to hold on to him. I call it "hands free dog walking". The fellow calls ahead asking if Koty would eat his dogs. I answered no but that I would no doubt end up on my butt as Koty jumped for joy, which is exactly what happened. It's the strangest thing. If you look at that soil it looks hard and crusted but it's actually as soft as velvet. So, no damage to the derriere but I was covered in a fine red dust!

The most difficult part about this post was choosing images to include. Sand Canyon is a treasure trove of beauty. I'll bet I could hike this canyon a thousand times and each time find some gem I'd never seen before.

If I get the chance I will definitely be coming back here. We also had a great shoot up Echo Basin but that will have to wait until another time. Funny thing is, Cortez was never on my flight plan. I landed here because of the weather. What great luck this bad weather!

©Kinsey Barnard Photography

PS: I am frequently told about people having trouble signing up for e-mail notification. I maintain my own notification list to be sure people who want it get notified. If you would like to be on that list please send your e-mail address to kotybear2002@msn.com

PPS: If you choose to view the high res image you can put your cursor in the right hand corner and blow the image up to nearly original size.

CAMP VERDE - ANASAZI RUINS

I must admit that being a “snowbird” in Arizona is not for the likes of Koty and I. And, it was never our intention. Our original plan was to photograph the Gulf Coast and up into the Piney Woods region of Texas. But, alack and alas, it was not to be. For a re-cap of how a trip to Arizona came about read Making God Laugh.

Well, we tried to put a good face on it but living like a sardine in a can just isn’t for us. We met many great people who will be friends forever but it’s just not for us. We never would have done it either if I had not been spooked by Park a mangers that told me I had better book fast because there would not be any place to stay. Well, that was simply poppycock. We could have traveled around Arizona just like we always do with no problems about getting a space. Live and learn. I learned!

Enough about that! On March 13th, with great anticipation, we left Apache Junction for Camp Verde. We were not disappointed. The RV Park we chose, Zane Grey, was a breath of fresh air. Situated along a creek, the park was dark and silent at night. Something we hadn’t experienced for four months! The management could not have been more helpful and fellow campers were too.

Camp Verde is a quaint little town maintaining some of its old west flavor.

The photos below are of an old feed and tack shop on the main street. I just love these types of displays. To me they are so colorful and interesting. Make me a little nostalgic.





The area is chock full of Indian ruins. Some are now National Monuments but there are plenty hidden away everywhere. It would take you forever to find and investigate them all. The three main ones are Montezuma Well, Montezuma Castle and Tuzigoot.



The above photo is of Montezuma Castle. You'll have to bear with me on the photography. Structures are not my forte and if you arrive at the wrong time of day the lighting can be very difficult. In this image you can see the sun is moving across the ruin. In another half hour I would have been out of luck. But, at least you can get some idea what they look like. If one wanted to get a very nice shot you would want to go late afternoon. At least that would be my take.

Here's a little history on the castle."The last known record of Sinagua occupation for any sites are for Montezuma Castle National Monument around 1425 AD. The reasons for abandonment of their habitation sites are not yet known, but warfare, drought, and clashes with the newly-arrived Yavapai people have been suggested. The five-story stone and mortar dwellings contain 20 rooms and once housed about 50 people. A natural overhang shades the rooms and shelters them from rain. Another part of the cliff wall bears the marks of an even larger dwelling, which has not survived." Wikipedia.

Next we visited Montezuma Well which was a well an irrigation system developed by the Sinagua. There are hundreds of images of the Well you can Google. Below is my rendition which is a little different than what you are likely to find. It's a duck swimming in the wells reflection of the cliff dwelling. Much more interesting to me.



The last ruin we visited was Tuzigoot. This is an out in the open structure rather than a cliff dwelling.



Here's the Wiki "Tuzigoot National Monument, near Cottonwood, Arizona, preserves a 2 to 3 story pueblo ruin on the summit of a limestone and sandstone ridge just east of Clarkdale, Arizona, 120 feet (36 m) above the Verde River floodplain. The National Park Service currently owns 58 acres, within an authorized boundary of 834 acres (3.38 km2) [1].

Tuzigoot is Apache for "crooked water", from nearby Peck's lake, a cutoff meander of the Verde River. Historically, it was built by the Sinagua people between 1125 and 1400 CE. Tuzigoot is the largest and best-preserved of the many Sinagua pueblo ruins in the Verde Valley."

We had a fine time exploring these ruins but exploring back roads is more our cup of tea. That will be coming up next.

©Kinsey Barnard Photography

PS: I frequently get complaints about people having trouble signing up for e-mail notification. I maintain my own notification list to be sure people who want it get notified. If you would like to be on that list please send your e-mail address to kotybear2002@msn.com